Yesterday in the courtyard of ISEDET, the German volunteers were learning how to dance a murga. The battering of drums drove me out of the library to watch. Two tall pale boys kicked their legs high and flung arms wildly. The drummers drummed, the ring broke for a moment, and another pair took over the dance.

The day before, I had breakfasted with María Alejandra, and, amongst many other fascinating things, she told me about a group of young people from her barrio in Rosario, who had recently performed a murga dance and song, commenting - as murgas always have - on their daily life, their struggles, and their hopes.

Today, Cecelia told me that once the drumming starts in the neighbourhood plaza, it's hard to stop it. The drummers drum, the ring opens for a moment, and more and more dancers are spun into the circle.

Murga Argentina by Juan Carlos Caceres is available in the UK